TheAnatomyof Tailoring
Cutters and tailors, London, since 1962.Beneath the cloth, a full canvas — floated, never fused.
Horsehair and linen, layered by weight.Nine hundred stitches set by hand before a canvas holds its shape.
Two days at the padding stitch alone.Woven in Huddersfield, rested six weeks, then cut once.
One length, one cutter, no second attempt.Pressed over a ham, in stages, until the shape is the body's own.
Thirty minutes of iron for every seam.03 / The commission
Choose the cut.
Then choose the cloth.
Every commission starts with these two decisions. The rest — the balance, the rise, the way a sleeve turns — is settled on the stand, in the room, over three fittings.
Midnight Twill
The Notch Two
Super 130s wool, 280g
The Notch Two, Single-breasted, two-button, in Midnight Twill, Super 130s wool, 280g.
The cut
The cloth
Specification
Our house cut, and where most commissions begin. A clean chest, a waist marked but never pinched, and a lapel drawn at the width that carries the widest range of shoulders.
- Lapel
- Notch, 8.5cm, medium belly
- Shoulder
- Lightly roped, natural extension
- Vents
- Double, 24cm
- Canvas
- Full floating horsehair
Opens a message to +880 1577-302590 with your cut and cloth attached.
01 / The house method
A suit is not cut from a pattern. It is drafted from a person.
Twenty-three measurements, taken standing, then again seated. A first fitting in calico. A second in cloth, ripped back to the shoulder and closed again by hand. Nothing about the process is fast, and none of it is meant to be. What leaves the house is a garment that has been corrected four times against a living body.
Roughly eighty hours of work, spread across eleven weeks. We have never found a way to shorten it that we were willing to keep.
02 / The cloth
Four mills. Nothing else on the shelf.
A bunch of two thousand swatches is a way of avoiding a decision. We keep four cloths on the table because we know exactly how each one behaves after a year of wear, a wet Tuesday and a press it should not have had. Weight is quoted finished, on the bolt, before shrinkage.
Cloth is reserved at the first fitting and cut within the fortnight. Anything else can be sourced on request.
- 01
Charcoal Barathea
- Mill
- Huddersfield, West Yorkshire
- Weight
- 340 g
- Weave
- Barathea
- Finish
- Dry, unmilled
The default answer to almost every question. Holds a crease, refuses a shine.
- 02
Midnight Herringbone
- Mill
- Biella, Piedmont
- Weight
- 290 g
- Weave
- Herringbone, 8 mm
- Finish
- Lightly milled
Reads as solid at three paces and as pattern at one. Best of both arguments.
- 03
Bronze Flannel
- Mill
- Yorkshire, milled in Lombardy
- Weight
- 420 g
- Weave
- Twill flannel
- Finish
- Raised, cropped
Heavy, warm, quietly gold in low light. Cut it soft or not at all.
- 04
Ivory Fresco
- Mill
- Somerset, England
- Weight
- 310 g
- Weave
- High-twist plain
- Finish
- Open, unfinished
Porous enough to wear at thirty degrees. The only cloth we recommend for July.